Indeed, most chefs can trace a pivotal moment in their career to a single meal - albeit not necessarily one resulting in expensive dental surgery. For Alla Wolf-Tasker, it was the simple pleasures of fresh tomatoes enjoyed one summer in France almost 30 years ago. They were presenting a strong sense of 'place', sourcing traditional regional recipes and using the very best ingredients of the season.
Sound familiar? These days, virtually every top restaurant boasts a similar philosophy. But it wasn't always like this. While Australia was worshipping at the altar of classical, rarefied French dining, back in France, high-end cooking had undergone something of a revolution.
Wolf-Tasker returned home, opened the Lake House and set about creating her dream: a country restaurant with "a real sense of place".
Fortunately, Wolf-Tasker persisted. Perry and his wife soon found themselves on the way to Etxebarri. Everything was so beautifully tender and succulent and full of flavour. It's certainly the reason I'm sitting here in Rockpool talking to you today. My father and brother are butchers, and I'd always had it in my gut that I wanted to open a steakhouse. But after Etxebarri, I knew I wanted to create a steakhouse that was just as good. Dessert queen Philippa Sibley has also drawn inspiration from Europe, having trained in both London and France.
Yet it was a dish at a local restaurant that sparked her ambitions. It was amazing - it tasted exactly what it was supposed to taste like. It was so good, in fact, that Sibley raved about it to friends and family. Not long after, her mother spotted an advertisement for a "reasonably qualified" chef at Tansy's. George is in his room, sitting up in a chair, trying to spoon sliced fruit into his mouth.
A walking frame is between his chair and his bed. I perch myself on the walking frame. His left hand is unsteady. He looks neat, almost shiney. Spruced up. He is wearing a blue and gold Williamstown footy club scarf. A teddy bear beside the large television is adorned with a red and black Essendon scarf and a Williamstown beanie.
On the television, installed by Wally, celebrity chef Iain Hewitson is in a studio kitchen nimbly cutting and dicing and cooking.
On the bedside table is a colour photo of George, aged about 30, playing acoustic guitar, and a black and white team photo from his cricket days at the tech school. George, eyeballs going back and forth, shakily points to a mop-haired smiling teenager at the end of the front row. I put the photo back by the bed and we gaze up at Iain Hewitson.
I hear a voice groaning down the corridor. Batted the other team out of the game. Then we look up at Iain Hewitson again. Bright blue skies. Big red braces. I know those old Bomber names. Even some of their numbers. I ask George about Wally and his wife. I shake hands and say goodbye to George, half-promising to return in a few weeks. I wonder if George would sing along. He was 61 years old. The combination of a stroke he suffered previously and the decades of medication for schizophrenia had, it seemed, finally taken their toll.
The official cause of death was pneumonia. We toasted George with a drink of his favourite beverage, Pepsi. Mary showed me a picture of George in the nursing home with one of the Morning Melody singers, an Elvis impersonator. Hey VIn, I spent three months commuting to Warrnambool each weekend whilst working in Melbourne and living in Ballarat to spend time with my Grandma who had a major stroke just after Easter and died early July.
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