Cutting the line unevenly is probably one of the biggest errors made when making brake lines. Using a cut off grinder, hacksaw, etc can be tough to make straight cuts and in turn causes inconsistent flares.
Freshly cut lines and brand new brake lines can have burrs or cutting debris on or in the line before forming a flare. This causes the excess material to be forced into the flare during the forming process and causes an inconsistent flare that could leak. We suggest to always deburr your lines with a file found on the end of some tubing cutters and clean your lines with Aerosol Injection to assure you have a clean line before you flare it.
Applying spray lube to the end of the line can also help the flare form easier. The line should be flush with the edge of the die to make the flare. Once you have all of your lines flared you will next need to route and connect the lines to the vehicle. Since brake fittings are usually in tight areas, bends need to be made in a line to get a brake line to fit and clear everything on the car.
Use Eastwood Tubing bender and Forming pliers to make smooth, accurate bends in brake lines. Brake lines need to have smooth, kink-free curves to avoid blockage of the brake fluid. Exhaust tubing, sockets, cans, etc can be used as forms to make smooth bends not handled by traditional brake tubing benders. Always route your lines out of the way of jack points, high temp areas, or spots where suspension movement occurs. Attach to the vehicle every couple feet.
Always purchase quality brake lines and fittings that meet or exceed OEM quality. Use Brake Gray to paint any parts that will or could be exposed to brake fluid. Parts coated with brake gray will withstand direct exposure to brake fluid and is a must on master cylinders, calipers,wheel cylinders, etc. Always bleed the brake system after replacing a line or part of the system.
Use the Eastwood Brake Bleeder Kit to remove any old fluid or air from the system. If you use these steps you can save money on buying pre-bent kits and labor to pay someone else to make custom formed and lines for your vehicle and put it into more tools for your shop! I just purchased the turret style double flare tool also and am doing all new brake lines on my 63 Ford Galaxie I did notice however, that the dies were installed on the turret and were not corresponding with the top of the turret showing the steps and sizes.
Before I move these around properly, will this void my warranty? They thread out, so that is no problem to swap them around. If you have any issues or further questions feel free to email our tech department directly: techelp eastwood. Not to be picky but ……. Are they done with the same tool? You use the same tool to make the final flare, but you use the bushing first that makes a bubble in the end of the tube. My fabulous web page "If it don't go, chrome it! I bought the cheaper kit that works just fine for the amount I use it.
August 29, , PM. Seth tried a few singles on his bu when we were running brake lines Absolutely positively must use double flares.
If you are going to be in this hobby a long time - getting a quality bender and flare kit - ridgid, or similar quality - it will pay for itself over time. Lisle makes good ones too. Cheap off shore flare kits are not worth the plastic cases they are sold in - IMHO I've tried a couple and they flat out don't work. Barry Donovan. I did just change a master cylinder, had 3 lines instead of two, and oh, I got angry at the bottom one that was stuck.
I think I put 20 seconds into it and slapped it all back together. Double flared lines, on the other hand, help reduce friction at the flares, which can cause cracking or leaks. European vehicles use bubble flared lines, which are similar in safety for high pressure hydraulic lines. If you see single flares on your brake system, replace them right away with double flared lines.
This is because the hydraulic pressure continues to be equal as long as the fluid levels are adequate and there is no air in the line. In operation a brake system may produce well over 1, psi, which requires lines, hoses, and fittings that can withstand pressure reliably.
Single Flares are only acceptable on low-pressure lines, but not acceptable for high-pressure brake systems. A single flare is just as it sounds, the line is flared out just once in a conical shape. Single flares are not acceptable for brake lines and tend to crack and leak quite easily. There are two basic types of flares used on OEM automotive brake systems throughout the world.
The most common is the SAE flare. Metric double flare and SAE double flare fittings are constructed from the same principles but with different angles.
0コメント